蒙古美食的特点（《MongolianDelicacy:AJourneyThroughtheTastesoftheSteppes》）

MongolianDelicacy:AJourneyThroughtheTastesoftheSteppes

Foreword:

ThevastandruggedMongoliansteppeshavebeenthecradleofnomadicculturesforcenturies,andtheircuisine,basedondairyproducts,meatandgrains,reflectsthecloserelationshipbetweenpeopleandnatureinthisharshenvironment.Frommilkyteatoroastedlamb,theflavorsofMongoliaareasdiverseasitslandscapes,andeachdishtellsastoryofsurvival,traditionandhospitality.JoinusonaculinaryadventurethroughthelandofGenghisKhan,anddiscoverthesecretsofMongoliandelicacy.AswesteppedoutoftheplaneinUlaanbaatar,thecapitalofMongolia,weweregreetedbyachillywindthatcarriedthescentofburningwoodandhorsedung.Thecitywasamixofmodernskyscrapersandtraditionalyurts,andthetrafficwaschaotic,withcars,buses,andhorsecartssharingthesameroads.Ourguide,afriendlyyoungmannamedBatbayar,welcomeduswithasmileandawarmgreetinginMongolian,alanguagethatsoundedbothexoticandfamiliar.Ourfirstmealwasatasmallrestaurantinthecitycenter,wherewewereservedabowlofhotnoodlesoupwithchunksofbeefandvegetables.Thesoupwasrichandsavory,withahintofspicesthatremindedmeofChinesecuisine.BatbayarexplainedthatMongolianfoodwasinfluencedbyitsneighbors,suchasChina,RussiaandKorea,butalsohaditsownuniqueingredientsandcookingmethods.Thenoodlesweremadefromwheatflourandeggs,andthebeefcamefromalocalfarmthatraisedgrass-fedcattle.Wewasheddownthemealwithaglassoffermentedmare'smilk,asourbeveragethattastedlikeyogurtmixedwithbeer.

Mongoliancuisineisfamousforitsdairyproducts,whichareanessentialpartofthenomads'diet.Wevisitedadairyfarmoutsidethecity,wherewesawhowmilk,yogurt,cheeseandbutterweremadefromthemilkofcows,yaksandmares.Theprocesswassimplebuteffective:themilkwasboiledinalargepotoverawoodfire,andthencooleddownandfermentedinaleathersackcalleda"khukhuur".Thekhukhuurwashungfromawoodenframeandswungbackandforthbyhandforhours,untilthemilkturnedintoathick,creamysubstancethatcouldbeusedinvariousdishes.Wetastedsomefreshyogurtandcheese,andtheyweredeliciouslytangyandrich.MeatisanotherstapleofMongoliancuisine,andlambisthemostpopularchoice.Wewenttoalocalmarketandsawrowsofskinnedandguttedlambcarcasseshangingfromhooks,theirheadsstillattached.Thesightwasabitgruesome,butBatbayarassuredusthatthiswasthebestwaytopreservethemeatinthecoldclimate.HealsoexplainedthatMongoliannomadsdidnotwasteanypartoftheanimal,andusedtheliver,heart,lungs,kidneys,intestinesandeventhebloodforfoodormedicine.Weboughtsomelambchopsandheadedtoanearbygercampsite,wherewewouldcookthemoveranopenfire.Ager,oryurt,isaportabledwellingmadeoffeltandwood,thatcanbeassembledordisassembledinafewhours.ItisthetraditionalhomeofMongoliannomads,whomovewiththeirherdsoflivestocktodifferentpasturesaccordingtotheseasons.Westayedinagerforanight,andexperiencedthecozywarmthofitsinterior,decoratedwithcolorfulrugsandfurniture.Thegerhadastoveinthecenter,thatuseddrydungasfuel,andaholeintheroofforventilation.WesataroundthestoveandlistenedtoBatbayar'sstoriesaboutnomadiclife,whilethelambchopssizzledonagrill.Mongolianbarbecue,or"khorkhog",isauniquewayofcookingmeatthatinvolveshotstonesandhotwater.Wewatchedasourhostspreparedthelambchopsforthekhorkhog,bycuttingthemintosmallpiecesandmixingthemwithonions,garlic,saltandpepper.Thentheyheatedapileofriverstonesinafireuntiltheywerered-hot,andputtheminametalpotwithwater.Themeatwasplacedontopofthestones,andcoveredwithalidandmorehotstones.Thesteamandheatfromthestonescookedthemeatslowlyandevenly,untilitwastenderandjuicy.Wetastedthekhorkhogwithourfingers,anditwaslikenothingwehadevertriedbefore:smoky,aromatic,andslightlygamey.

TeaisnotjustabeverageinMongolia,butasymbolofhospitalityandfriendship.Wewereofferedteaeverywherewewent,fromrestaurantstogerstohouseholds.Mongoliantea,or"suuteitsai",ismadewithmilk,saltandtealeaves,andservedhotinbowls.Ithasacreamytextureandasalty-sweettastethatcomplementstherichflavorsofthefood.Welearnedhowtoholdthebowlwithbothhands,andslurptheteanoisilytoshowappreciation.Dumplings,or"buuz",areapopularsnackormealinMongolia,especiallyduringholidaysorgatherings.Wevisitedafamilywhowasmakingbuuzfortheirdaughter'sweddingceremony,andtheyinvitedustojoinin.TheprocesswassimilartomakingChinesedumplings,butwithadifferentfillingandshape.Thedoughwasmadeofflour,waterandsalt,androlledintothincircles.Thefillingconsistedofgroundlamb,onionsandspices,andwasplacedinthecenterofeachcircle.Theedgeswerethenfoldedandtwistedintoaknot,andthebuuzweresteamedinalargepot.Wetriedourhandatmakingbuuz,andalthoughtheylookedmorelikeblobsthanknots,theytastedsurprisinglygood.Noodles,or"tsuivan",areastaplefoodinMongolia,especiallyduringthecoldseason.Theyaremadeofwheatflourandeggs,andcookedwithvegetablesandmeatinawok-likepan.Wewenttoahouseholdinthecountryside,wherewesawhowawomanwasmakingtsuivanforherfamily.Shekneadedthedoughonawoodenboard,usingarollingpintoflattenitintothinstrips.Shethencutthestripsintoshorterpieces,andfriedthemwithslicesofbeef,carrots,cabbageandonions.Thearomaofthedishwasirresistible,andwewereinvitedtoshareabowlwiththefamily.Thenoodleswerechewyandflavorful,withasatisfyingcrunchfromthevegetables.DessertsinMongoliaareoftenmadewithdairyproducts,suchasyogurt,creamandcurdledmilk.Wetastedsomeofthemostpopularones,suchas"aaruul"(driedcurds),"byaslag"(creamycheese),and"suuteitsaikhuurshuur"(teacakes).Aaruulisasnackthatcanbestoredforalongtime,andismadebydryingcurdledmilkinthesunorinanoven.Itisslightlysourandchewy,andcanbeflavoredwithhoney,sugarorherbs.Byaslagisasoft,creamycheesethatcanbespreadonbreadoreatenwithfruit.Suuteitsaikhuurshuurisapastryfilledwithmincedmeatandspices,andfrieduntilcrispy.Itisusuallyservedwithteaormilk.

SnacksareanimportantpartofMongoliancuisine,andcanbefoundinstreetmarkets,busstationsortrainstations.Wetriedsomeofthemostpopularones,suchas"boortsog"(deep-frieddough),"khuushuur"(deep-friedmeatpies),and"shimiinarkhi"(distilledvodka).Boortsogisasimplebutaddictivesnack,madeofflour,sugarandoil,andshapedintosmallsquaresorcircles.Khuushuurisamoresubstantialsnack,filledwithmincedmeatandonions,andfrieduntilgoldenbrown.Shimiinarkhiisastrongalcoholicbeverage,madeoffermentedmare'smilkorgrain,anddistilledinacopperpot.Ithasadistinctflavorandaroma,andisusuallydrunkinsmallshots.FestivalsareanoccasionforMongolianstoshowcasetheirculinaryskills,aswellastheirculturalheritage.WeattendedtheNaadamfestival,whichisthemostimportanteventinMongolia,andfeatureswrestling,archeryandhorseracingcompetitions.WealsosawhowpeoplecelebratedtheLunarNewYear,or"TsagaanSar",byvisitingrelativesandfriends,wearingtraditionalclothes,andeatingspecialdishes.ThemostpopulardishduringTsagaanSaris"buuz",followedby"khuushuur","boortsog","byaslag"and"aaruul".WewereinvitedtoaTsagaanSarfeastatahouseholdinthecountryside,andtastedallthesedishesandmore.Thehospitalityandgenerosityofourhostswereoverwhelming,andwefeltlikepartoftheirfamily.Mongoliancuisineisnotastaticentity,butadynamiconethatevolveswithtimeandinfluences.WesawhowsomechefsandentrepreneurswerecreatingfusiondishesthatcombinedMongolianingredientswithforeigntechniquesorflavors.WevisitedarestaurantthatservedMongoliansushi,madewithrice,seaweed,salmonandlamb.Wealsotastedsomeicecreamthatwasflavoredwithmare'smilkandseabuckthorn,alocalberrythathashighnutritionalvalue.Thefusiontrendwasnotwithoutcontroversy,assomepuristscriticizeditfordilutingtheauthenticityofMongoliancuisine.Butitwasalsoasignofinnovationandcreativity,andawaytoattractnewcustomersandmarkets.Mongoliancuisinemaynotbethemostglamorousorrefinedone,butithasmanyhealthbenefitsthatarebackedbyscience.Forexample,mare'smilkisrichinvitamins,mineralsandprobiotics,andhasbeenshowntoboostimmunity,digestionandmetabolism.Yakmeatisleanerandmorenutritiousthanbeeforpork,andcontainsomega-3fattyacidsandantioxidants.Traditionalfermenteddairyproductsareanaturalsourceoflacticacidbacteria,whichhavebeenlinkedtoguthealthanddiseaseprevention.Andtea,especiallygreentea,hasbeenshowntohaveanti-inflammatory,anti-cancerandanti-agingeffects.

Mongoliancuisinefacessomechallengesinthemodernworld,suchasglobalization,urbanization,climatechangeandeconomicdevelopment.Theavailabilityandqualityoflocalingredientsaredeclining,duetoovergrazing,pollutionandcompetitionfromimportedgoods.Thetraditionalcookingmethodsarebeingreplacedbygasstovesorelectriccookers,whichmayaffectthetasteandtextureofthefood.Theyoungergenerationismoreinterestedinfastfoodorforeigncuisine,andmaynotappreciateorlearntheskillsofMongoliancooking.Andthelackofinfrastructure,suchascoldstorageortransportation,hindersthedistributionandmarketingofMongolianfoodtoothercountries.Despitethechallenges,Mongoliancuisinehasabrightfuture,thankstoitsresilience,diversityanduniqueness.Thereareeffortstopromoteandpreservethetraditionalrecipesandtechniques,througheducation,researchandtourism.Therearealsoopportunitiestoadaptandinnovatethecuisine,byincorporatingnewtechnologiesorcuisines,whilerespectingtheculturalandenvironmentalvalues.Andtherearemarketsandconsumerswhoareinterestedinexoticandhealthyfoods,andwhoappreciatethestoriesandtraditionsbehindtheflavors.ThefutureofMongoliancuisineisnotwrittenyet,butitisinourhandstoshapeit.Aswelookedbackonourjourneythroughthetastesofthesteppes,werealizedthatMongoliancuisinewasmorethanjustacollectionofdishes,butawindowintoarichandfascinatingculture.Wehadtastedtheharshnessandbeautyofthenomadiclife,thegenerosityandwarmthofthehospitality,andthediversityandadaptabilityofthehumanspirit.Wehadalsolearnedthatfoodwasnotjustamatterofsustenance,butamediumofexpression,communicationandtransformation.Wefeltgratefulfortheopportunitytoexplorethisculinaryworld,andhopedthatotherswoulddothesame.Wewouldliketoexpressourgratitudetoallthepeoplewhomadethisjourneypossibleandmemorable:ourguideBatbayar,whosharedhisknowledgeandpassionwithus;ourhosts,whowelcomeduswithopenheartsandkitchens;ourfellowtravelers,whosharedtheirstoriesandperspectiveswithus;andalltheunknowncooks,farmersandartisans,whoworktirelesslytobringthetasteofMongoliatoourtable.Wealsothankthereader,whohasfollowedusonthisgastronomicadventure,andhopethatyouhaveenjoyedtherideasmuchaswedid.

Inconclusion,Mongoliandelicacyisatreasuretroveofflavorsandstories,thatinvitesustoexploreandappreciatethediversityofhumanculture.Fromthesimplicityofmilkandmeattothecomplexityoffusionandhealth,Mongoliancuisineofferssomethingforeveryone,andconnectsustoaworldbeyondourborders.Itremindsusthatfoodisnotjustamatteroftaste,butasourceofidentity,memoryandimagination.Anditinspiresustosavorlifewithalloursenses,andtoshareourjoyandlovethroughtheartofcooking.AsweleftUlaanbaatarandflewoverthesteppes,welookeddownattheendlessexpanseofgrasslandsandmountains,andfeltasenseofaweandhumility.WeknewthatwehadonlyscratchedthesurfaceoftherichculturalheritageofMongolia,andthatthereweremanymorestoriesandflavorstodiscover.Butwealsoknewthatwehadgainedsomethingprecious:adeeperunderstandingandappreciationofthediversityandbeautyoftheworldwelivein.Andweknewthatwehadleftasmallpartofourselvesbehind,inthewarmthandhospitalityofthelandofGenghisKhan.-Nomads:peoplewhomovefromplacetoplacewiththeirlivestock,withoutsettlinginoneplace-Dairyproducts:foodmadefrommilk,suchasyogurt,cheese,butterandcream

-Ger:aportabledwellingmadeoffeltandwood,usedbyMongoliannomads-Khorkhog:awayofcookingmeatwithhotstonesandwater,popularinMongolia-Tsuivan:Mongoliannoodlescookedwithvegetablesandmeatinawok-likepan-Naadam:themostimportantfestivalinMongolia,featuringwrestling,archeryandhorseracingcompetitions

-TsagaanSar:theLunarNewYearinMongolia,celebratedwithspecialdishesandcustoms-Mare'smilk:milkfromafemalehorse,usedasabeverageoringredientinMongolia-Yakmeat:meatfromayak,alargedomesticatedmammal,usedforfoodinMongolia-Shimiinarkhi:distilledvodkamadefromfermentedmare'smilkorgraininMongolia

-Boortsog:deep-frieddoughshapedintosmallsquaresorcircles,popularinMongolia-Khuushuur:deep-friedmeatpiesfilledwithmincedmeatandonions,popularinMongolia-Byaslag:creamycheesethatcanbespreadonbreadoreatenwithfruit,inMongolia-"Mongolia-CultureSmart!:TheEssentialGuidetoCustoms&Culture"byAlanSanders(2017).CultureSmart!ISBN978-1857338629.

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